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Flora and fauna belong together: why plants matter in animal care
For me, a love of animals has always gone hand in hand with a love of plants. You cannot fully understand an animal’s world by looking only at the animal. The plants around it, the ground beneath it, the air moving through the habitat, the water, the light and the places to shelter all help shape how that animal experiences its environment.
That is why flora is not an afterthought in good animal care. Plants are not simply there to make an enclosure look attractive. Used thoughtfully, they can contribute to shelter, shade, climbing routes, feeding opportunities, humidity, visual barriers and natural behaviour. They can also give keepers, students and visitors another way to understand the relationships that make habitats so fascinating.
This is the thinking behind my Living Habitats and Bioactive Husbandry service. I support animal collections with practical, welfare-led habitat advice, bringing the plants, animals, environment and day-to-day work of the keeper team into the same conversation.
A passion for plants and animals
I have spent more than 35 years working across the animal sector. The more time I have spent with animals, the more curious I have become about the places they come from. What grows there? How does the habitat change through the seasons? Where does an animal rest, hide, forage or raise its young? What is growing in the canopy, on the ground, in the water or on the branches?
Those questions lead naturally to plants.
A plant is never just a plant when it is part of a habitat. It has needs of its own: suitable light, water, root space, airflow and growing conditions. It also has a shape, a growth habit and a place in the wider environment. Some plants grow upwards, some spread across the ground, some cling to trees, and others sit in water. Each can change how an animal moves through and uses a space.
I have a particular fondness for plants that invite closer inspection. Bromeliads, with their remarkable shapes and leaf structures, have fascinated me for years. I enjoy the variety found across the family Bromeliaceae, including Aechmea, Billbergia, Guzmania, Neoregelia, Tillandsia and Vriesea. Even within one genus, there can be striking differences in form, colour, size and the way a plant grows.
Tropical ferns hold a similar appeal. Asplenium nidus, Nephrolepis exaltata, Platycerium bifurcatum and Microsorum musifolium each offer something different in terms of shape and structure. Mosses, including Taxiphyllum barbieri and Vesicularia montagnei, can bring delicate texture to a planted environment. And then there are the carnivorous plants: sundews in the genus Drosera, butterworts in Pinguicula, and pitcher plants in Nepenthes. They are wonderful examples of how plants adapt to challenging growing conditions in surprising ways.
I also enjoy familiar plants that many people recognise, such as Monstera deliciosa and pothos, Epipremnum aureum. Familiarity, though, should never replace careful thinking. A plant’s popularity as a houseplant does not automatically make it suitable for an animal habitat. Looking attractive is not the same as being appropriate.
Plants have their own stories
Part of the pleasure of working with flora is that every plant can start a conversation. Why does it grow that way? Where does it grow naturally? What does it offer an animal, and what does it need in return?
Bromeliads are especially useful for opening up those conversations. Some bromeliads hold water between their leaves, creating small pockets of moisture within the plant. These water-filled spaces, often called phytotelmata, can form small, specialised microhabitats. In certain natural systems, they are part of the environment used by small animals.
Some poison frogs, including species within groups such as Dendrobates and Ranitomeya, use small water bodies in plants during aspects of their breeding behaviour. The details vary by species. It is important not to assume that every poison frog uses bromeliads in the same way, or that planting a bromeliad alone recreates a natural breeding environment. The value of the example is in what it shows us: a plant’s structure can become part of an animal’s world in a very direct way.
It is also a great way to help visitors and students look at an enclosure differently. Instead of seeing a bromeliad as a splash of colour, they can start to think about its shape, the water it may hold, the animals that might interact with it and the conditions it needs to stay healthy. That turns planting into a teaching opportunity.
The plant-and-animal connections found in nature can be wonderfully surprising. Consider Nepenthes lowii, a pitcher plant from Borneo. The relationship between mature plants and mountain tree shrews is a remarkable example of an interaction in which the plant offers a food reward, while the animal contributes nutrients to the plant. This does not mean that a captive habitat should try to reproduce that exact relationship. It does give us a brilliant story about how plants and animals can be connected in ways that are far more complex than “one lives beside the other”.
These stories remind us that habitats are not just collections of species. They are places where organisms interact with one another and with their environment. In a zoo or animal collection, we can use those stories to encourage curiosity, respect and a deeper understanding of the natural world.
A habitat should be designed, not decorated
When I think about habitat design, I think about the whole space. Where will the animal move? What can it climb, rest on, hide behind or explore? How will the planted areas be watered? Can the keeper reach the plant that needs attention? Will the substrate drain properly? Is there enough light for the plants without creating an unsuitable environment for the animal?
That is the architectural side of my approach to flora. I like to consider the habitat as a connected system rather than a collection of separate decisions. The layout, planting, substrate, water, climate, access and maintenance routines all affect one another. Getting those relationships right early can make a habitat more practical and resilient over time.
It also helps avoid the familiar problem of designing a beautiful enclosure that is difficult to manage. Plants might be selected for appearance without considering how large they will grow. A decorative feature might block access to a service point. A planted wall might need a watering system that was never included in the build plan. A substrate might look natural but fail to drain as intended.
None of those problems means a planted habitat is a bad idea. They are reminders that planting needs to be planned with the same care as every other part of the enclosure.
My approach is to ask what the habitat needs to do, then consider how the plants and physical design can help achieve it. A screen of foliage might provide privacy. A sturdy climbing plant or branch structure might create usable vertical space. A carefully chosen ground layer could offer cover or help create a more natural visual transition between areas. In every case, the decision must make sense for the animals and the people caring for them.
A habitat is not finished when it looks good on opening day. It needs to keep working as plants grow, animals change and keeper routines develop. Planning for that future is part of the design.
For examples of habitat and species work, you can visit my projects page and read about the thinking behind larger projects in my case studies.
Reverse Osmosis and Remineralized Water
Reverse osmosis (RO) is a water purification process that removes contaminants from water by using a semi-permeable membrane. While this process effectively eliminates impurities, it also removes essential minerals, necessitating the remineralization of the treated water to restore its health benefits and improve taste.
Remineralization Process
Remineralization involves adding essential minerals back into the purified water. This can be done through various methods:
Mineral Cartridges: These cartridges can be installed in the water filtration system to add minerals like calcium and magnesium back into the water.
Mineral Drops: Liquid remineralization solutions can be added directly to the water, allowing for precise control over mineral levels.
Natural Mineral Stones: Placing mineral stones in a remineralization tank can naturally infuse water with essential minerals.
Meeting Specific Water Parameters
To achieve desired water quality, specific parameters such as pH, total dissolved solids (TDS), and mineral content must be monitored and adjusted. The approach to managing these parameters can vary based on budget and preferences:
Automatic Systems
Automated Remineralization Units: These systems can automatically add minerals and adjust pH levels based on real-time water analysis.
Smart Monitoring Systems: Integrated sensors can continuously monitor water quality and provide alerts or adjustments to maintain optimal parameters.
Programmable Controllers: These devices can be set to operate at specific intervals, ensuring consistent remineralization and quality control.
Manual Systems
Manual Mineral Additives: Users can manually add mineral powders or drops to the water, adjusting levels based on periodic testing.
Simple pH Test Kits: Basic kits allow users to check pH levels and make necessary adjustments without automated systems.
DIY Remineralization Solutions: Home setups using mineral stones or homemade solutions can be budget-friendly options for remineralization.
Conclusion
Choosing between automatic and manual systems for remineralizing reverse osmosis water largely depends on budget, desired convenience, and the level of control needed over water quality. Both methods can effectively achieve the necessary water parameters to ensure safe and enjoyable drinking water. Animal Insight Consultancy will provide solutions and training where required.
A purist approach, with room for practical judgement
I care about where plants come from and how they relate to an animal’s natural environment. If we are building a habitat for animals from a particular region, I want us to think carefully about the flora associated with that region too. That means asking questions about natural range, habitat type, climate, growing conditions and the ecological relationships that matter.
I call this a purist approach, but I do not mean that every planted habitat must be a perfect copy of a particular forest or country. Nature is varied, and our knowledge is never complete. The practical requirements of animal care, plant availability, biosecurity, sustainability, legal controls and the needs of the collection all matter too.
It is also worth being precise about what “country of origin” means. Many plants have ranges that cross national borders. Some species grow across different elevations or habitat types. Others are available in cultivation as varieties selected for colour, size or growth habit. A plant label might tell us its species, but not its full history or whether it has been responsibly grown.
So I prefer to start with good questions rather than a simple rule. Is the plant appropriate for the animal? Does its growth habit suit the space? Can it tolerate the light, humidity and watering conditions? Is it safe from an animal’s point of view? Is it being sourced responsibly? Can the keeper team manage it? Does it genuinely contribute to the habitat?
Where possible, I favour plants that make sense for the habitat being planned. That can help create a coherent story for the animals and for visitors. But geographic matching should not become an excuse to ignore welfare or practicality. If a suitable plant is unavailable, illegal to source, vulnerable to pests or impossible to maintain in the conditions provided, it is not the right choice simply because it appears on a regional plant list.
Nor should “naturalistic” mean taking plants from the wild. Responsible sourcing matters. Biosecurity matters. Plant health matters. The long-term success of a habitat is better served by careful planning and legitimate, healthy plant material than by shortcuts.
Choosing plants for different habitats
Different plants suit different jobs, and that is where a broad interest in flora becomes useful. Bromeliads, ferns, mosses, climbers, aquatic plants, cacti and succulents all have different needs and forms. The challenge is not to use as many plants as possible. It is to select plants that work for the space, the species and the team.
Bromeliads and tropical structure
Bromeliads offer a remarkable range of forms. Some are rosette-shaped, others have more upright leaves, and some grow as epiphytes on other surfaces. Genera such as Aechmea, Billbergia, Guzmania, Neoregelia, Tillandsia and Vriesea can provide different textures, colours and structures.
Their suitability depends on the conditions provided and the animals in the habitat. A plant that thrives in one tropical enclosure may struggle in another if the light, airflow or watering pattern differs. The plant also needs to be positioned so keepers can inspect it and maintain it without disturbing the animals unnecessarily.
Bromeliads are especially valuable for education because they show how much more there is to a habitat than the animal people came to see. They can help explain plant structure, microhabitats, water-holding leaves and the interdependence of living things. When combined with accurate interpretation, they make the habitat itself part of the visitor experience.
My love for bromeliads is not only about their appearance. It is about their diversity and the questions they raise. How does this species grow? What conditions does it prefer? What might an animal do with the spaces between its leaves? What would keep the plant healthy in this particular setting? Those are the kinds of questions that can turn a planting plan into a more thoughtful habitat.
Ferns, mosses and forest-floor detail
Ferns can bring excellent structure to planted environments. Asplenium nidus has broad, arching fronds; Nephrolepis exaltata can create a softer, more layered appearance; and Platycerium bifurcatum has an unusual shape that can prompt questions about how plants grow on surfaces rather than in a conventional pot.
Mosses can add fine texture and help create a visually cohesive surface, but they also need conditions that suit them. The right humidity and moisture balance matter, as does the surface on which they are growing. A moss-covered area that looks lush in a photograph may not remain healthy if the airflow or moisture regime is wrong.
That is why planting decisions should be made alongside decisions about environmental control and maintenance. A living habitat is not finished when it looks good. It needs to keep working.
Ferns and mosses can also help create distinct visual layers. They may soften hard edges, make a space feel more enclosed, or contribute to a particular atmosphere. But they should not be expected to solve every design problem. They are one part of a wider plan that includes appropriate shelter, substrate, temperature, humidity and access.
Climbers and familiar houseplants
Climbing plants can help create vertical interest and use space that would otherwise be empty. Epipremnum aureum, commonly called pothos or devil’s ivy, and Monstera deliciosa are familiar examples, but their suitability should always be assessed for the specific enclosure and animal.
Pothos should not be treated as edible forage. It contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals and can cause irritation if chewed or swallowed. The fact that it may be used as a plant in some settings does not make it a food plant. The animal, the plant’s accessibility, the likelihood of chewing and the habitat plan all need to be considered.
This is a point I like to make with teams: do not rely on common names, assumptions or a quick internet list. Identify the plant correctly, understand the risks, and check whether it is suitable for the animals in your care. If an animal is likely to eat a plant, plant safety needs to be considered as part of the diet and welfare plan.
The same thinking applies to Monstera deliciosa. It can be an impressive plant, but its presence in a habitat should be considered in context. Will it grow to a manageable size? Can it tolerate the conditions? Is it accessible to animals that may chew it? Does the design allow the keeper team to inspect and maintain it? A familiar plant still deserves careful assessment.
Aquatic plants and floating greenery
Aquatic planting adds another layer of interest. Floating water lettuce, Pistia stratiotes, can be attractive in some aquatic systems, while other planted-water choices may suit different displays. But aquatic plants have their own care needs, and their suitability depends on water quality, filtration, light, animal behaviour and local rules.
A plant that grows quickly may become difficult to manage. Some aquatic plants can spread beyond the places they were intended to grow, so sourcing, containment and local restrictions should be checked before use. This is particularly important where a plant may be invasive or subject to controls.
Plants can also be part of a broader aquatics plan. My Aquatics and Hydroponics service covers practical support for planted aquatic set-ups, filtration, water chemistry and species-specific considerations, from a small display to a larger system.
Hydroponic and planted systems are especially interesting because they bring together animal care, water management and plant growth. They still require a clear understanding of what each species needs. Good water chemistry for one animal may not suit a particular plant, and a system that works in theory may need adjustment once it is operating in the real world.
Carnivorous plants and a lesson in adaptation
Carnivorous plants are among the best examples of how varied plant life can be. Sundews in the genus Drosera use sticky structures to capture prey. Butterworts in Pinguicula use sticky leaves. Pitcher plants in Nepenthes form specialised traps, with striking variation between species.
They are fascinating plants, but fascination should not be confused with suitability. Many carnivorous plants have particular requirements for water, substrate, light and mineral levels. They should not be included simply because they are unusual. The needs of the plant and the needs of the animal must both be understood before it becomes part of an enclosure.
Their educational value, however, is enormous. They can help explain adaptation, nutrient-poor growing conditions, specialised plant structures and the range of ways organisms obtain what they need. They are often the kind of plant that makes a visitor stop and ask a question.
A carnivorous plant can also be a useful reminder that plants are not passive scenery. They respond to their environment, grow in specialised ways and have evolved strategies that can surprise us. That makes them excellent subjects for interpretation, provided the information is accurate and the plant is being cared for appropriately.
Cacti, succulents and dry habitats
Cacti and succulents are a world of their own. Cacti in the family Cactaceae, and succulents such as Aloe vera, Haworthia and Echeveria, bring very different structures and growing requirements from tropical ferns and bromeliads. They can be useful in the right dry habitat, but their spines, sharp edges, sap and potential for animal contact all need to be considered.
The right plant depends on the animal’s behaviour. A spiny cactus might be appropriate as part of a carefully planned display where animals cannot injure themselves, but unsuitable where a species is likely to push through it, climb on it or forage among it. A succulent may tolerate dry conditions but still be a poor choice if it is accessible to an animal that will chew it.
The important thing is not to treat a plant category as automatically safe or unsafe. Think about the specific plant, the individual animal, its behaviour and the way the habitat is laid out.
Dry habitats can be just as carefully planned as tropical ones. A plant that is adapted to dry conditions still needs appropriate light, drainage and root space. The habitat also needs to provide the animal with the conditions and choices it requires. “Low maintenance” should never mean “no maintenance”.
Growing plants for food and forage
Food plants are a separate conversation from decorative planting. If a plant is being offered as food or forage, its identity, growing history, preparation and suitability for the animal need to be checked.
Opuntia ficus-indica, the prickly pear, is cultivated for edible pads and fruit in some settings. But “Opuntia” is a genus, not a blanket guarantee that every species is suitable to feed. Spines and fine glochids can cause injury, and plant material must be correctly identified and prepared. The animal’s diet and nutritional needs also matter. A plant that is eaten by people is not automatically suitable for every animal.
The same principle applies to all edible planting. A food plant should be selected for the species that will eat it, not because it is easy to grow or looks natural. Plants used as forage should be grown without unsafe pesticides or treatments, and their use should fit into a properly considered diet.
Pothos, Epipremnum aureum, is not an edible food plant and should not be presented as one. Hydrangeas, including Hydrangea macrophylla, may be beautiful garden plants, but they should not be treated as animal forage without a clear, species-specific safety assessment. The name of a plant and its familiar place in a garden do not tell us whether it is appropriate for a particular animal.
For me, good plant planning includes knowing what the plants are for. Are they for shelter? Climbing? Shade? Visual screening? A naturalistic effect? Food? Each purpose brings different questions. Being clear about that purpose helps a collection choose well and avoid introducing unnecessary risks.
If a plant is intended as food, involve the appropriate animal-care and veterinary professionals. Check identification, growing conditions and the animal’s nutritional requirements. Never assume that a plant is safe because it is edible for people, because another collection uses it, or because it appears on a general list.
Bioactive does not mean maintenance-free
The word “bioactive” can make a habitat sound self-sustaining. That is not how I would describe a well-managed planted enclosure. A bioactive system can use naturalistic substrates and clean-up organisms to support certain processes and may reduce some routine maintenance. It still needs monitoring, cleaning and active husbandry.
The animals still need daily care. Water quality, temperature, humidity, ventilation and plant health still need attention. Substrate can still become compacted or unsuitable. Plants can still outgrow a space, become damaged or fail. Clean-up organisms need appropriate conditions too. A planted habitat needs a team that understands how it works and what to watch for.
The strongest bioactive projects are not just collections of components. They are systems designed around the animals and the practical realities of care. The substrate, drainage, planting, microclimate, clean-up organisms and access for keepers need to be considered together. Each part should have a reason for being there.
I have supported bioactive work in animal collections large and small, and I believe the same principles apply regardless of scale. A small planted enclosure deserves clear planning and consistent care just as much as a large tropical biome. Larger projects may have more moving parts, but they still depend on good fundamentals.
A successful bioactive habitat also needs a way to notice when something is changing. Are plants growing as expected? Is the substrate holding too much moisture? Is the water feature behaving as intended? Are the animals using the space in the way the team hoped? Is access still practical? Regular observation helps a team spot small issues before they become bigger ones.
The aim is not to create a system that needs no care. The aim is to create a system that is thoughtfully designed, understandable to the team and more likely to remain healthy over time.
Helping keeper teams embrace the basics
One of the biggest challenges in habitat management is helping staff feel comfortable with the plants as well as the animals. That can be difficult when a team is busy, when plant care has historically been treated as a separate job, or when people have had little opportunity to learn horticultural basics.
I understand that. Keepers already have a great deal to think about: animal health, feeding, cleaning, records, safety, enrichment, visitor interactions and the many unexpected tasks that come with a working collection. Adding plant care can feel like another demand.
The answer is not to expect every keeper to become a horticultural expert. It is to make the essentials understandable and manageable. Staff need to know what plants are present, how to recognise them, what conditions they need, how to spot early signs of stress and who to ask when something does not look right.
A simple, practical plant record can help. It might include the correct name, where the plant came from, where it is used, its basic light and water requirements, any known risks, and the person or specialist to contact if advice is needed. Clear routines can help too: what to check, how often to check it and what should be reported.
The most useful training is connected to the actual habitat. Rather than delivering abstract plant facts, I prefer to help teams understand the plants they work with every day. Why is that bromeliad placed there? Does the fern need more or less light? Is that climbing plant becoming too dense? What should the team do if a plant is wilting, yellowing or being chewed?
Good training should build confidence, not make people afraid to touch a leaf. Staff should know what they can manage themselves and when to ask for help. They should understand that pruning, replacing, moving or treating a plant may have consequences for the animals and the habitat, so changes should be made thoughtfully.
That is also where communication with horticultural specialists becomes essential. Keepers know the animals, how they use the space and what happens during the working day. Horticultural experts bring knowledge of plant health, growing conditions and plant care. Those perspectives should work together, not in separate corners.
A good habitat project makes space for that relationship early. It gives the keeper team a chance to explain what is practical, gives horticultural specialists the information they need, and gives the design team a clearer picture of how the habitat will be used once it is occupied. When everyone is involved from the start, the result is more likely to work in the real world.
The educational power of living habitats
A planted habitat can be a powerful educational resource. Visitors may come to see an animal, but plants can help them understand the animal’s environment and behaviour. A climbing plant can illustrate how an animal moves through a space. A bromeliad can prompt a conversation about water-holding leaves and tiny habitats. A fern or moss can help explain moisture, shade and the different layers of a forest.
This can be especially valuable in animal-management education. Students can practise observing both plants and animals, identify the conditions each requires and think about how enclosure design affects behaviour and welfare. A well-planned habitat can bring together animal care, horticulture, biology, conservation and visitor learning.
The plants also help tell a story about place. When the species and habitat are carefully considered, interpretation can show how an animal’s environment is structured and why certain features matter. That offers visitors more than a pretty display. It gives them a reason to look closely.
The story must be accurate, though. We should avoid suggesting that a captive enclosure reproduces an entire natural ecosystem when it does not. We can still explain the inspiration for the habitat, the plant choices, the animals’ needs and the ways the team cares for the space. Honesty makes the story stronger.
Plants can also make an enclosure more engaging for repeat visitors. A habitat changes over time. New growth appears, leaves turn towards the light, flowers emerge, and animals use different areas in different ways. Those changes give keepers and educators fresh opportunities to talk about observation, care and the living nature of a planted environment.
Designing for the animals and the people who care for them
The best habitat is not simply the one with the most plants or the most impressive photograph. It is the one that works for the animals and can be managed responsibly by the people who care for them.
That means balancing ambition with practicality. A lush tropical environment may be exciting, but it needs the right climate, access, maintenance plan and plant selection. A dry habitat may look simple, but it still requires careful thought about substrate, heat, shade, shelter and the risks posed by certain plants. A planted aquatic display needs a sound understanding of water quality, filtration and the needs of the animals living within it.
It also means asking the right questions before building. What behaviours should this habitat support? What is the animal likely to climb, dig, hide in or eat? Which areas need to be accessible to keepers? How will plants be established and maintained? What happens if one fails? Can the team get the tools and materials they need? How will the habitat change as plants grow and animals mature?
I like to talk through those questions early, before decisions become expensive to change. Early planning can help avoid drainage problems, poor plant placement, awkward keeper access and unnecessary maintenance burdens. It can also help the collection decide which features matter most for animal welfare and which are simply attractive additions.
My wider work brings together animal welfare, practical husbandry, staff support and habitat planning. You can learn more about my background on the About page, or see the range of support available through my services page.
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